Clutch probem as well :0(

[phildini]

When I left my RED Gta sitting for a year the brakes and clutch were S$%T! just replace the fluid it makes all the difference on the other hand my BLACK Gta it looks like the chasis number is the one that needs modifying...... B*GGER!!!

As you can tell as mine has only done 30000 miles it does sit around a lot Changed the fluid a little while ago and it is miles better than it was with the heat issue.

Well finally dragged my butt into the garage got round to looking at my clutch slave problem when it gets hot. Tried the renault advisory approach of doing without removing the turbo (as I am not confident removing the turbo) and what a PITA. Hats off to anybody who has done it as room is so restricted !!

Could not get the the the nut off on the bellhousing for the the main slave heatshield on the offside!!! I have no pit etc and could not get a spanner up there!

On the plus side I have got the other bolts/shields off and managed to move the heat shield out of the way to see enough of the slave. I have probrably now got enough access to remove it TBH (can see all bolts and joints) but after inspecting it I cannot see any leaks at all aorund it, so I think that it is just heat soak in the pipes (as it only plays up when it is hot and been on good blast and the car is standing still). So I have ordered a load of heat shield tape and I am going to wrap the cylinder and pipes, bleed the system down again and replace the fluid again and see how it goes through the summer.

I will try and take some pictures before I lag it and after if I remember.

If it does not work then I maybe making a trip to Paul Sage at Alpine Renault Restoration for them to replace it !

Cheers
Brad

A quick look will not do much good ,the bore may be scored etc .You've gone this far .....Take it off and do it properly
Turbo off is not a big job and will make the slave job much easier and quicker .

I had heat problems with my clutch slave a while ago and found it stemmed from when I removed the plastic scoop under the gearbox to clean it, and didn't refit it. Couldn't believe it made that much difference, but it is 30+ degrees most days here.

I know that

The cooling scoop gets air to the clutch .It's on the bottom of the bellhousing so you wont need to remove it to wrap the cylinder .It really helps according to people I've spoken to that have it .Not got one on mine so I'm on the lookout for one .

Lee,

If the bore was scored or the seals knackered would I not see evidence of fluid weeping out past the seals? I know you are right to remove and rebuild but I am convinced that this is heat soak issue. Also mine is a 1990 car and according to the advisory I should have re-routed pipes, but looking last night the feed pipe still bends back over the slave towards the offside, which brings it closer to the turbo? I would expect if it was the later spec to be routed away fronm the turbo?

Thanks
Brad

You might not ,it might be weeping into the bell housing ? I dunno ,but you've done 70% of the ball ache job removing the shields etc .
Mine is OK except for reverse when really hot .Big blower and old design pipework ....and no gearbox scoop ......
Up to you though innit .I'll do it cheaper than Paul by the way

Thanks Lee.

Thanks for the offer but it is a distance thing as I am in Kent otherwise I would hand it over

You might not ,it might be weeping into the bell housing ?

It does indeed weep into the bellhousing, then it weeps back out of the bellhousing a the bottom where there's a gap

Seriously though, if the slave has problems, you'll see it on the garage floor.:

The DeLorean has an exhaist crossover directly above the gearbox and the clutch flexi stops ahead of that and a hard line runs along under it.

Problems with heat expansion of the clutch line on the DeLorean are well documented and for years have been remedied by replacing the original plastic line with a stainless braided one.

DeLoreans rarely suffer that "reverse crunch" that is apparently so common on the GTA. Obviously the master is different tho...

Yeh ,good luck identifying that grade from all the other puddles

Fine then ,leave it on and go to all the trouble of trying to wrap it properly in situ .Fit it all back on, shields, pipework and shite ....
Then give Paul a ring when it's still crunching ......
Last I've got to say on the matter

Apart from ....

D's are not turbo'd and aren't capable of being thrashed so no suprise the UN1 has an easier life

:0) I know Lee I should refurbish it. I have a seal kit and everything, but I find with the GTA if I touch something that may not be broken it usually opens up a new host of issues :0)

I have carpet on the garage floor and no signs of any leaks (from anywhere) and the fluid in the reservoir has never dropped.

To be honest I have never had any problems with crunching gears, even with reverse ? Just on hot summer days after standing still for a while after a good thrash the clutch does not dis-engage even if right to the floor and car still creeps forward.

I think that the pipes on there are metal at present (they are darkgreen?)

Thanks
Brad

Apart from ....

D's are not turbo'd and aren't capable of being thrashed so no suprise the UN1 has an easier life

Whoever thrashes their car in reverse?

Reverse crunching is what happens on a hot day when the car still has a plastic clutch line. I ain't arguing that it's hydraulics, and it's deffo heat related, but all the slave's I've replaced have been leaking.

Whoever thrashes their car in reverse?

Reverse crunching is what happens on a hot day when the car still has a plastic clutch line. I ain't arguing that it's hydraulics, and it's deffo heat related, but all the slave's I've replaced have been leaking.

Those Duke boys for one and that Transporter fella

Gear choice is irrelevant.The D does not put as much heat or stress into the system .
Well then if you've had to replace them what you on about

Someone has still not fixed the quote thing that works ....still