new year new car gta v6 gt

Hi John B,
That's really useful feedback...the 310 and the Atmo share quite a few hoses and some of the ones you mention are common...water pump and carbs ones for example.
Sounds like a phone call before purchase...the current hoses hold water at the moment, I don't want to make the car worse by spending money.
Thanks
Lee

[johnb]

...the 310 and the Atmo share quite a few hoses and some of the ones you mention are common...water pump and carbs ones for example.

Just had a more detailed look at the problems I had with some of the hoses in the Simon Auto kit 061284A. The photo below shows what was received. Considering that I had problems with ‘only’ 6 of the hoses I’d probably give a higher score than I did yesterday. Nevertheless, you shouldn’t expect to have any problems. Looking at specifics: -

The two hoses between the pump and the cylinder heads – In the photo below I’ve placed the SA hose over the original. It turns up to the right rather than going straight to the connector on the head. If I’m correct, the SA part number for the equivalent GTA hose is 061107 (061086 for the A310). Looking at their photo of this hose it appears to have a single bend so might fit properly.

The hose between the pump and the flow divider is the same part number (061172) for both the GTA and A310. It was a slack fit at both ends causing the coolant leaks. The pump and flow divider connections are both 44 mm od so I bought a straight length of 42 mm id silicon hose to replace the SA hose. The photo below shows the flow divider on the left, replacement hose centre, SA hose on the right.

The hose to the pump thermostat housing was too small in bore size at the thermostat end. The photo below compares it with the old hose. The SA hose was 39 mm id compared with the old hose at 44 mm id. The hose in the GTA kit is totally different, if I’m correct (part number 061098 for the GTA and 061082 for the A310). It’s a much longer hose and might fit the GTA thermostat housing.

Two of the hoses at the single choke carburetor fouled the distributor body and cap but I eventually adjusted them so that it’s tight, but acceptable. One of the hoses is SA part number 061117 which is compared with the original hose in the photo below. It’s equivalent for the GTA is, again if I’m correct, part number 061215. So it’s different and might not be a problem.

Just thought I’d clarify with some specifics. The GTA kit could have fewer problems, hopefully none.

By the way, for the heater hoses I just bought straight lengths of standard rubber heater hose, as I didn’t consider it necessary to buy specifically tailored pieces. I also had to arrange the hoses differently at the heater matrix because the original matrix had leaks and I replaced it with one originally from a Renault 16. This had different connections to the original so a kit wouldn’t have fitted. The GTA heater hoses look quite different so maybe more sense in buying a kit.

Johnb,
thanks again for such a comprehensive reply, I know how long it takes to write something with pictures, well for me anyway.
Cheers
Lee

[BIG_MVS]

Hey Custard! I will see your cross member and raise you....





The steering rack didn't need much persuasion! I am genuinely worried for all Alpines out there I really am. All I can say is have a look and a good tug on all the front steering rack areas. Imagine what could happen....



I might be able to save the Steering rack clamps/mounts Mr Metters if it helps?

Well MVS you may have won as this one obviously did not pass the mot. Or did I win as my one did get an mot. I could then have had a strange steering brown trouser moment on the track

Scary stuff guys.

So that box section sits on top of the lower bracing between the two turrets that features the large 10cm approx. holes visible from underneath the car correct?

I take it from Martin's pics (and the exploded view in the manual) that this is a totally sealed box section? It looks like you peeled back the upper side when you opened it up and freed it from the fibre glass wrapper Martin?

So with that in mind is the inside of the box section visible in anyway from under the car, or is it a case of slicing off the glass fibre or drilling some access holes and buying a USB mini-cam? Equally is the corrosion visible on the outside of the box section - how many sides are coated by the glass fibre?

So far mine all looks good from underneath (in terms of the plate with the big holes in) - was this similarly corroded on these examples. I'll be back under the car soon so I'll have a poke around.

On the Gta and turbo if you read the posts it explans what to look at, in general jack the car up tack the frunt wheels of and look at the steering rack mounts and all that area. If there is any rust even just surface, the box will be rusted inside. As it is 2 bits of metal sandwiched together, the sweating from the box is trapped between them an rots from the inside.

Hi Darren,
I have only seen pictures of the car (there are more on the RATS/Lee facebook feed than here) ...but it is under fibreglass at the front.
Acting on Custards advice, I asked lee to peel back the top and have a look at it properly (he did ask me more than once and I had my fingers crossed for luck when I asked, this car has been inside for a significant amount of its time and I hoped for better).
Up to that point, it had looked OK...the rack was going to have to come off for some lower repairs, but it looked minor and accessible from below, the rack wasn't loose, the turrets and rear of the car are OK. The sills are ok except for that jacking point...there were no big warning signs of the horror inside from underneath.
Looking at all the pictures, there are two slots high up on the front face (but they may be covered by fibreglass) and a semicircle in the bottom face that may be accessible through the LHD cut outs on the back of the cross member. Have a look at the pictures and I'm sure you'll see. Don't look at the "after" shots as the car now has quite a few additional ventilation holes in the cross member to stop further problems and give access for future waxing.
Custard or Lee should be able to comment better about whether and endoscope camera could get in once you know the way...the access will be really tricky without a lift, removing the undertray and knowing where to look.
Probably worth a look at it if you are planning to keep the car.
The car will be sound now, but I wish it hadn't needed the work. Engine upgrade work will be delayed a bit I suspect.
Cheers
Lee

Considering the cars are 20/30 years old it's not that bad. I had made some templates, the hard bit is actually cuting the old out and the cleaning and prep befor welding. The 610 is harder and it has mour dividers in it for greater stiffness, this is when I decided to rebuild it in stainless steel. If you are an owner, it is sumething that you need to know what the condition is of this area, as it is structurally important? There will be rust hopefully not to bad, but as there is no rust prevention in this area this needs to be rectified. However this cannot be dun without hovering out and cleaning out the box section, befor soaking it in waxoil.
This requires the fule tank out, cutting of the fibreglass cap, then cut access slots to achieve the above, even if it may require work but you are not in a position to do it at that time you can prevent it getting any worse.

Thanks both.

I'll have a look when I'm underneath and see if there's anything visible. It's a bit of an odd one as it looks like some cars may be very bad, others not really affected. As Custard said, might depend on ventilation and the like. A modern garage may not be as good as a draughty one.

You need to strip the top end bits out the way to see most of it ,tank,divider panel,bat tray,blower and the plastic cover/tray below .
FIN

crossmember repaired.jpg

[BIG_MVS]

On the breaker you could see it was drapes from inside the wheel arch looking at the back of the cross member. If I was looking at any GTA/A610 I would have a very good poke around and pull the steering rack to see if there is any movement...

As said above you need to remove most of the front end gubbins and peel off the top of the fibre glass to get to it to do the repair. It's not overly complicated the removal of bits but guess you need expert help with the welding and fabrication etc.

Looks good BTW Roland

Servo repaired .Off down the chicken shack tomorrow to collect the water pipes ....

WP_20150822_002.jpg

Today I got an exciting new set of pictures from "somewhere in Derbyshire" , it now looks a little different. Many steps to go, but I'm beginning to sense how it may turn out, and so far I like what I see. Will be good to see it in the flesh.
From this:-



To this:-


Very pleased so far...and yes I like the colour, even if its not an Alpine blue...

[The Saint]

Has it had an A610 rear spoiler?? it looks bigger than a GTA's??
Must say I do like that blue!!