new year new car gta v6 gt

I dunno ...there's no difference apart from the stub axle...
New lines turned up today and 5 mins later.

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Northern Powerhouse at full steam ....

Fill her up with vital fluids in the morning and see if she fires ....

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[BIG_MVS]

Magic Darts!

Hmm, many steps forward and now a significant problem....

the rear brake limiter is seized so Clee can't bleed the brakes, no fluid at the back at all. After 20 years out of use, I guess this isn't a surprise but as the ONLY part of the brake system (bar the pedal itself) that hasn't been replaced, it's typical (I'm trying to be restrained).
This is an issue made worse by the fact I can't find it in the parts book (i have looked att he three different scans of different ages that I have) and Simon auto don't stock it

So does anyone have either a part number (Renault, bosch/manufacturer reference) or a new or usable second-hand unit?

Car is looking pretty now, but many niggles to fix (apart from the fact that it hasn't run yet and can't stop).

Thanks
Lee

......... So does anyone have either a part number (Renault, bosch/manufacturer reference) or a new or usable second-hand unit?

Is this any good to you Lee......... Item No.10 I think.

[johnb]

Simon Auto are listing it at Euro 141.61, part number 131064. Mecaparts also list it as 'brake corrector' at Euro 139.14, part number MP3704. Of course it doesn't mean they have them in stock.

Another possibility might be a generic proportioning valve. Car Builder Solutions are showing 3 models and this is the mid-price one.

http://www.carbuildersolutions.com/uk/b ... -valve-cbs

It would mean you'd have to modify your existing brake pipes or extend them with additional fittings and pipe and then you'd have to set it up to give you the balance you want. I guess to be able to set it up would mean mounting it somewhere easily accessible, etc, etc. Talking myself out of it now, may or may not be practical.

Its an option but not before it leaves me tomorrow afternoon .....bloody cars !
I've put the bias valves in JIL running lines through cabin so next to gearstick and here in the Ecup in its original position

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Thanks everyone, I'd looked at that bit and assumed it was something to do with the servo, silly me.

more money with Simon...I think they have had more of my money than Andy did when I bought the car.
I don't fancy the bias valves as I think they need quite a bit of repiping to fit.

hopefully getting to the end.
cheers
Lee

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Well it's home and slowly coming together,
Anyone recognise these cabless. ..trying to remove old alarm whilst tidying up.
Think these are ac wires, tuck behind fan, but what's in the passenger footwell?

Thanks Lee

.......... but what's in the passenger footwell?

That connector was for the OE Alarm / immobiliser if fitted ....... it was an optional extra.

Thanks John...the one in the footwell?
There is also a fuse box down there too, poking out in th epicure, and a pair of extra red wires near the fan. I'm assuming the red wires are ac related, useful to know the plug in the footwell is for the alarm, I wonder if the fuses down there are aftermarket alarm related. I'll have to bite the bullet and remove the panel.
This is important as the car won't start.
It fires on first click of the starter and then stops and churns over. I'm trying to work out why!
Today I have got a few things orted but seem to be taking as much apart to find out what's happening as I pit back. MOT seems as far away as ever.....
Cheers
Lee

It ran before when Andy took it away so I doubt it's immob related and if it fires then that's proof .
Checked still getting fuel ? I marked the dodgy wire/multiplug connection to pump.Pull the carb feed hose and check it delivers when cranking,shove the pipe in a vessel and just crank .

Thanks John...the one in the footwell?
There is also a fuse box down there too,

Yes ....... can I refer you to page 164 of the 1990 Electrical manual .....explains it all.

...... and a pair of extra red wires near the fan. I'm assuming the red wires are ac related,

I can't help you with the leads in your last pic ... sorry.

This is important as the car won't start.
It fires on first click of the starter and then stops and churns over. I'm trying to work out why!

As Clee says check to see if you have a flow of fuel when cranking ....... also check that there is 12v supplied to the idle cut off solenoid on the single carb when the ign is on..... see pic below.



When starting any carb engine which has been pulled apart, they can be troublesome to fire for the first time.
In the Atmo's case, this is not helped by the fuel not being supplied to fill the float chambers until cranking starts, as Clee comments.
As you crank, once a bit of fuel gets to a certain level in the chamber, it tries to start, but because the float chambers are not full, they cannot then supply enough fuel to catch the next compression, so it stops.
Two things you can try after following Clee's suggestion of making sure the pump runs when cranking ....... just keep the engine cranking through the coughs, it then may start to catch intermittently until it eventually fires continuously .
If you still have problems, you can try and start the engine on the main jet ........ very slowly so as not to operate the accelerator pumps, press the accelerator pedal to the floor and start cranking ...... once again continue cranking without let up, till the engine starts to run, but quickly come off the pedal to a high idle held by the pedal of about 2000 rpm, keep it there for a minute or so, then slowly come off the pedal and see if it will idle by its self.
Don't worry too much about high revving on oil pressure as your continuous cranking will have got the oil moving around and pressure will build immediately.
Just as an aside, this starting then immediately stopping after the first cough is a characteristic of the Atmo due to the petrol in the float chambers evaporating after engine switch off due to the heat rising to the top of the engines.
I have overcome this by fitting a priming relay with a manual switch (a redundant one on dash switch panel) which does two things.
One .... priming before starting ..... Two, ..... should the pump relay that senses the cranking fail, I can just use the priming switch, which is a latching type, to run the pump and get me home.

[johnb]

It fires on first click of the starter and then stops and churns over. I'm trying to work out why!

From cold my A310 behaves as you've described. See below for what I do.
Starting from hot it fires on the first click of the starter and usually keeps running.

If you still have problems, you can try and start the engine on the main jet ........ very slowly so as not to operate the accelerator pumps, press the accelerator pedal to the floor and start cranking ...... once again continue cranking without let up, till the engine starts to run, but quickly come off the pedal to a high idle held by the pedal of about 2000 rpm, keep it there for a minute or so, then slowly come off the pedal and see if it will idle by its self.

I do what John describes above, the only difference being that after it runs I only need to keep it at roughly 2000 rpm for a few seconds, after it's 'cleared its throat', before taking my foot off the throttle. At that point the choke and thermal capsule operation keep the revs high enough to keep it running until it has warmed up where the revs drop to the idle setting.

I have overcome this by fitting a priming relay with a manual switch (a redundant one on dash switch panel) which does two things.
One .... priming before starting ..... Two, ..... should the pump relay that senses the cranking fail, I can just use the priming switch, which is a latching type, to run the pump and get me home.

Presumably this means that you've added an electric pump in parallel with the mechanical pump to do the priming, or have I missed something?

[stephendell]

It fires on first click of the starter and then stops and churns over. I'm trying to work out why!

From cold my A310 behaves as you've described. See below for what I do.
Starting from hot it fires on the first click of the starter and usually keeps running.

If you still have problems, you can try and start the engine on the main jet ........ very slowly so as not to operate the accelerator pumps, press the accelerator pedal to the floor and start cranking ...... once again continue cranking without let up, till the engine starts to run, but quickly come off the pedal to a high idle held by the pedal of about 2000 rpm, keep it there for a minute or so, then slowly come off the pedal and see if it will idle by its self.

I do what John describes above, the only difference being that after it runs I only need to keep it at roughly 2000 rpm for a few seconds, after it's 'cleared its throat', before taking my foot off the throttle. At that point the choke and thermal capsule operation keep the revs high enough to keep it running until it has warmed up where the revs drop to the idle setting.

I have overcome this by fitting a priming relay with a manual switch (a redundant one on dash switch panel) which does two things.
One .... priming before starting ..... Two, ..... should the pump relay that senses the cranking fail, I can just use the priming switch, which is a latching type, to run the pump and get me home.

Presumably this means that you've added an electric pump in parallel with the mechanical pump to do the priming, or have I missed something?

Gta atmo has a single electric fuel pump at the front. No mechanical one.

A cheap clear inline filter at the back can help identify if you have fuel flowing.