A610 L790 LVR

circa 2011 . Rottbott


I think those Spax were the old design pre coilover versions ,dual purpose GTA and 610

Yes thay were on the car when I got it, and i think after lee put the spax on the previous owner put very low springs on to lower the car, so I have put original springs back on it and it was hard to get the Frunt ride hight right, there is no problems going around corners it's like its on rails, and it has a very direct feel which is great, but would be wearing for me on long drives or on bad roads.

[BIG_MVS]

Lovely ride in my A610 Stuart with standard shocks and springs. Take the boy racer stuff off and get the standard comfort shocks back on it.

old fart
I've got a box full of std stuff and also slightly uprated for 610 .Came from the same source as the A/C you had .Think there are some 'boy racer' bits in there as well ...Tim will be pleased to be called that

Well as I had the spax I thought I would get the best of both worlds, but I am over the big 50 so I do pipe and slippers and sofa, so its comfort for me and the wife needs to be able to put her makeup on.

My 610 was completely standard and rode and cornered fantastically, in fact it was nothing short of amazing on the rough roads we have around here(and at Macon). It was easy to drive quickly regardless of road condition (assuming there is a surface).
If yours isn't like that, put it back to standard, French cars should be good on the rough stuff and an A610 certainly can be.
I know that yours has standard ride height, but there isn't any adjustment on the A610 that allows it to work with the right steering angles unless the ride heights are original.

I'm over 50 too, and I think its starting to show...no slippers yet though!

Cheers
Lee

Well it's going to rain tomorrow so I will be stripping all the suspension apart again and putting all the original stuff back on, as with most things the manufacturer probably spent millions getting the right balance between ride and handling.

[Alpineandy]

All Alpines are quite softly sprung (by sports car standards) from the factory and have pretty good roadholding/comfort balance. IMO it's only worth changing if you want to do track work or the original is knackered and the factory stuff is too expensive.

That's the problem ,there is no new original available so it's either old or 'sport'
I must have fitted a dozen of various types and setups ,very subjective ....GAZ or Spax ..Bilstein also available.
The new Spax is supposed to be tailored to each model and there are different codes on the dampers but they wont supply springs with the dampers so I doubt they've ever actually had a car to test and offer a proper kit .
Springs of course make the difference and it's a case of messing around until you're happy.Std or coilover setup .

Well it is all back to standard and it is fantastic perfect for road use, smooth ride and planted thank goodness I was getting worried, I bought the car lowerd and was lucky that Big Mvs had some original spring and shocks thanks Martin. So all I can say is if you are considering lowering a 610 don't it mucks up the geometry of the suspension, you will wear the inside of the tyres in no time and the ride is terrible unless you are going to track day all the time, hopefully I am nearing the end apart from a few bitts and pieces.

Well back on the old car trying to sort out the cutout problem think I might of found it as all this is original but it looks in pretty poor shape, The Tdc sensor has bare wires coming out of it the base of the coil is all cracked with heat I suppose.

[BIG_MVS]

I hope it's as easy as replacing those but I reckon you won't win I'm afraid.

Common A610 problem which I'm pretty certain is down to the Engine Loom deteriorating with age and causing an issue whereby the ECU cuts the fuel pump.

Just fit a earth strap for the fuel pump relay and it should resolve it. Mines been on for a good 10 years plus and it never cuts out.

I do agree I'm just trying to get it running for the summer, then in the winter I was going to drop the engine and re-do the wiring loom and change the fuel lines to ethanol proof along with the injectors, do you have a diagram showing how to put that Link in I was shown but I can't remember.

Well put the new bits in and after the non starting problem it's all working, at the moment it seems to run with no cut outs when running even with A/C on which made it stop within 5min, but when you stop the engine leve it for a while it starts but when you go to pull away it cuts out, I think this is the fule has vaporised in the injectors and put an vapor pocket which you have to push out with your foot down then ok.
So going to leve it until the winter then engine out new fule lines, injector service, rewire and Ecu upgrade, then I hope it will be reliable and mour enjoyable.

Started the final stage engine out to do the fuel lines and wiring, took of the fuel lines and found I have been very lucky the swaged fittings where shot just moving them the lines cracked, down in the wheel arch and on top of the engine, just replaced with S/S so look at all your fittings plus all the rubber as mine are starting to look like they are going soft inside the ethanol effect, so ethanol pipe going back on.
The lower wiring cooked and crisp around starter and alternator, so the exhaust manifold will need more heat prevention as well as the heat shield.